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We determine wind-wave properties and estimate the wave exposure along the entire shore of Lake U¨berlingen,a subbasin of Lake Constance, using a third-generation spectral wave model (SWAN), and compa...
In addition to the bispectral coherence method, phase/time analysis of analytic signals is another promising avenue for the investigation of phase effects in wind waves. Frequency spectra of phase flu...
Asymmetry of wind waves was studied in laboratory tank tinder varied wind and fetch conditions using both bispectral analysis of wave records and third-order statistics of the surface elevation. It is...
Measurements of drift were made in a wind and wave facility at different elevations below the mean water level. The drift profiles were obtained for reference wind speeds, Ur=3.1, 5.7 and 9.6 m sec...
An empirical spectral equation for fetch-limited deep-water wind waves was derived by applying similarity analysis to wind and wave data recorded at the Lake Michigan Research Tower near Muskegon, Mic...
A new method for measuring the directional spectrum, introduced in the preceding paper (Rikiishi, 1978), has been applied to actual wind waves in a large experimental tank 70 m × 8 m with the water 3 ...
It is shown that a simple relation, E* = 5.1 × 10−2 σm*−3 for describing the conditions of growing wind waves, is supported by various available data, where E* = g2E/u*4 is dimensionless e...
A computational scheme for calculating transfer functions is prepared, which gives much improved numerical stability and smoothness compared with previous studies. Besides, a detailed analysis is made...
We analyze in detail the budget of total and fluctuating energy in the surface layer of the ocean. We suggest a rational scheme for separating the budget of turbulence from that of random wind-generat...
It is shown that in order to describe the transfer of gases in the liquid near the air-sea interface, the vertical structure of three-dimensional small-scale turbulence in turbulent patches generated ...
Recent theoretical studies of the accelerations in regular gravity waves of finite steepness have shown striking differences between the Eulerian and the Lagrangian accelerations (those measured by fi...
Equilibrium spectral behavior for ocean gravity wind waves has been investigated actively over the past three decades, yet fundamental problems remain in reconciling theory with observations. Predicte...
Air bubbles produced by breaking wind waves are measured in a laboratory tank to study bubble clouds produced in freshwater under various wind and wave conditions. Vertical entrainment of bubbles and ...
A full discrete spectral model for propagation generation and dissipation of wind waves for arbitrary depth, current and wind fields is presented (WAVEWATCH). This model incorporates all relevant wave...
Effects of tides and storm surges on wind waves in shelf seas are assessed by hindcasting three North Sea storm cases. It is shown that tides and storm surges in shelf seas should be considered as an ...

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