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搜索结果: 1-6 共查到海洋物理学 surf zone相关记录6条 . 查询时间(0.204 秒)
Breaking wave energy in the surf zone is modelled through the incorporation of the time dependent energy balance equation in a non linear dispersive wave propagation model. The energy equations solved...
A numerical model is used to simulate the shoreward propagation of a train of periodic borelike surface disturbances in the surf zone over a sloping beach. Turbulence production is included both in th...
Steady surf-zone longshore currents and directional properties of the incident wave field were measured on a beach with nearly straight and parallel depth contours. Selected data were processed into 6...
Analytic and numerical models for longshore currents generated by obliquely incident random waves am compared with field observations. Five days of observations were selected during which the waves we...
A new optical instrument was deployed in the surf zone in a trial experiment to measure bubble size distributions and visualize air entrainment and bubble formation mechanisms within breaking surf. Im...
The spectral energy balance of ocean surface waves breaking on a natural beach is examined with field observations from a cross-shore array of pressure sensors deployed between the shoreline and the o...

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