搜索结果: 1-8 共查到“海洋科学 surface gravity waves”相关记录8条 . 查询时间(0.062 秒)
Interaction of Small-Amplitude Surface Gravity Waves with Surface Currents
Small-Amplitude Surface Gravity Waves
2009/3/24
The one-dimensional interaction of surface gravity waves with nondispersive internal waves is studied in a linear approximation by solving the equations of motion in a coordinate system moving with th...
The directional Spectra and Kinematics of Surface Gravity Waves in Tropical Storm Delia
directional Spectra Surface Gravity Waves Kinematics Tropical Storm Delia
2009/2/23
Knowledge of the kinematics of the flow beneath surface waves is vital for the design of offshore structures. Due to the technical of making pertinent measurement in storm conditions, knowledge of the...
The Response of Surface Gravity Waves to Changing Wind Direction
Surface Gravity Waves Changing Wind Direction
2009/2/9
The behavior of a wind-sea is investigated for wave directions differing from the local wind direction. To describe the phenomenon we added the mean wave direction as an additional prognostic quantity...
Friction-Induced Roll Motion in Short-Crested Surface Gravity Waves
Friction-Induced Roll Motion Short-Crested Surface Gravity Waves
2009/1/16
Induced streaming due to deep water surface gravity waves propagating at oblique angles to each other is studied theoretically on the basis of a Lagrangian description. The ocean is slightly viscous, ...
Reflection of Ocean Surface Gravity Waves from a Natural Beach
Ocean Surface Gravity Waves Natural Beach
2008/12/16
The energy of seaward and shoreward propagating ocean surface gravity waves on a natural beach was estimated with data from an army of 24 bottom-mounted pressure sensors in 13-m water depth, 2 km from...
Structure and Instability of the Ekman Spiral in the Presence of Surface Gravity Waves
Ekman Spiral Surface Gravity Waves
2008/12/12
The physical processes responsible for maintaining the mixed layer am examined by considering the velocity structure. The low-frequency Ekman response in the interior of unstratified mixed layers is m...
Nonlinear Dispersion of Surface Gravity Waves in Shallow Water
Nonlinear Dispersion Surface Gravity Waves Shallow Water
2008/6/6
The nonlinear dispersion of random, directionally spread surface gravity waves in shallow water is examined with Boussinesq theory and field observations. A theoretical dispersion relationship giving ...
Advective pore-water exchange driven by surface gravity waves and its ecological implications
Advective pore-water exchange surface gravity waves
2014/5/21
The effects of surface gravity waves on pore-water release from permeable sediment (k 5 1.3–1.8 3 10211
m2
)
in shallow water were studied in a wave tank. Our tracer experiments demonstrated that s...